A new class of cationic conditioning polymers (Polymer SL) has been prepared and evaluated in shampoo formulations. Polymer SL is a family of high viscosity quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) polymers with cationic substitution of trimethyl ammonium and dimethyldodecyl ammonium (Figure 1). SL compositions benefit from hydrophobic character to deliver superior conditioning performance in hair care applications. At the same time, low levels of hydrophobes have been chosen to assure good compatibility with surfactant systems without the complications of associative thickening. The polymers have been evaluated in clear shampoo formulations and two-in-one silicone containing shampoos using objective lab methods and subjective panel evaluation on hair tresses. Commercial conditioning polymers: Polyquaternium-10 (PQ-10) (UCARE Polymer LR-30M) and Guar Hydroxypro-pyltrimethylammonium Chloride (Jaguar C-13S) were used as performance benchmarks. The new hydrophobically-modified cationic polymers demonstrated superior performance in all major categories of conditioning and showed improved silicone deposition from two-in-one systems. Moreover, they retained other good qualities of their PQ-10 structural analogs such as enabling crystal clear formulations and showing no build-up or volume-down effects on hair. These new olymers were also found to be efficient conditioning agents in different surfactant systems with or without silicones.

20 Aug 1999·ACS Symposium Series

Building Aqueous Viscosity through Synergistic Polymer—Polymer Interactions

Author: Konish, Peter N. ; Gruber, James V.

The rheol. of aqueous solutions containing a hydrophobically-modified, cationic cellulose ether, Polyquaternium-24 (I), blended with amylose (II), a linear polyglycan obtained from potato starch, was examinedThe viscosity of solutions containing 0.5, 1.0 and 2.0 weight percent I optimally blended with amylose concentrations of 0.12, 0.25 and 0.5 weight percent, resp., were investigated under controlled shear and stress.The mixtures show indications of building yield at increasing concentrations of I and are pseudo-plastic at high shear.The storage and loss moduli were examined as well and indicate that I and II interact synergistically to form gels at the higher concentrations of II employed.The data continues to support a hypothesis reported earlier suggesting that mixtures of I and II interact through a non-covalent crosslinking mechanism where the hydrophobic groups attached to I intercalate into the interior of the helix formed by the amylose, a so-called "Lariat Complex".

10 Mar 1999·Cosmetic Science and Technology

Synthetic Polymers in Cosmetics

Author: Gruber, James V.

A review with 182 referencesThe preparation of various types of polymers and their uses in skin and hair-care formulations are dicussed.

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