Yunnan Botanee Bio-Technology Group Co., Ltd.

Sensitivity testing for cosmetic formulations mainly involves human patch tests. Cell models, including KeratinoSens^TM, ARE-Nrf2 luciferase LuSens and h-CLAT, can predict chemical sensitization according to the OECD 442E standard.

The aim of this study was to identify a potential approach for the assessment of the sensitization potential of cosmetics using skin models cocultured with THP-1 cells.

We identified the surface markers CD54 and CD86 in THP-1 cells using flow cytometry and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assays (ELISAs); detected the relative secretion of IL-18, MTT and 7AAD; and evaluated tissue and cell viability. Adverse reactions were analysed using the human patch test.

The relative level of IL-18 secretion after exposure to cinnamyl aldehyde, 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene, propyl gallate and coumarin was less than 0.79. The relative fluorescence intensity of CD54 was greater than 150, and that for CD86 was greater than 200. Using RFI CD54 ≥ 150, RFI CD86 ≥ 200 or RS IL-18 ≤ 0.79 as the potential sensitization standard, an 18-item cosmetic formulation caused sensitization. Moreover, a 23-item cosmetic formulation caused sensitization in the human patch test. The sensitivity to the products in the in vitro test reached 56.52 %, compared with 75 % for the cleaning products.

RFI CD54/CD86 and IL-18 may serve as a new approach to evaluate potential sensitization to cosmetics. In vitro SkinEthic and THP-1 cell coculture combined with the human patch test may better predict potential sensitization to cosmetics.

Ludwigia adscendens (L.) Hara (L. adscendens) is a Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), first mentioned in Sheng Cao Yao Xing Bei Yao (Essential Guide to Raw Herbal Properties). It clears heat, removes dampness, detoxifies, and reduces swelling. In TCM, it is prescribed for acne caused by dampness-heat accumulation. It is also used for cold, fever, sore throat, boils, dermatitis, and snake or dog bites. Research shows it has antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-lipoxygenase effects. However, studies on its impact on sebaceous gland function (a key factor in acne pathogenesis) are still limited.

This study aims to investigate the effects of L. adscendens extract (LHE) on sebaceous gland function and its mechanisms.

Active compounds in LHE were identified using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Its effects on lipid synthesis, sebocyte proliferation, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) were assessed in a 5α-dihydrotestosterone (DHT)-induced sebocyte model. Untargeted lipidomics was used to analyse sebum composition and detect LHE-induced changes. Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities were evaluated using zebrafish models and biochemical assays. Sebum-regulatory efficacy was measured to assess LHE's impact on sebum production.

LHE showed strong biological activity by activating the PPARγ/LXRα/SREBP1 pathway, reducing lipid production, inhibiting sebocyte hyperproliferation, and delivering notable antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. Lipidomic analysis revealed that LHE effectively altered lipid composition, especially by lowering triglycerides (TG), diacylglycerols (DG), ceramides (Cer), and hexosyl-1-ceramides (Hex1Cer), with major changes observed in medium- and long-chain TG and phosphatidylethanolamine (PE) levels. Efficacy tests confirmed that LHE reduced sebum production and improved skin texture by shrinking pore size.

LHE improves sebaceous gland function by reducing lipid overproduction and hyperproliferation through the PPARγ/LXRα/SREBP1 pathway. It also enhances the lipid profile by lowering key lipid molecules like TGs and PEs. Moreover, LHE shows anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. These findings suggest its therapeutic potential for sebaceous gland-related conditions and reveal new insights into its mechanism in topical use.

Buddleja officinalis Maxim., a prominent medicinal plant from the Scrophulariaceae family, is extensively distributed throught China, Korea, Vietnam, and Myanmar. This phytotherapeutic agent has demonstrated significant clinical efficacy in treating various ophthalmic disorders, such as xerophthalmia, infectious conjunctivitis, keratopathies, corneal ulcerations, and neuropathic ocular pain.

To explore the potential photoprotective effects of Buddleja officinalis Maxim. extract (BOE) against UVB-induced oxidative damage in human immortalized keratinocytes.

In this study, we analyzed BOE components using HPLC and evaluated scavenging activities against 2, 2'-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2-azinobis 3-ethylbenzothiazoline 6-sulfonate (ABTS), and Superoxide anion (O₂^·-) through biochemical assays. Cell viability was assessed with cell counting kit-8 assay (CCK-8) and lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) kits, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels were quantified by flow cytometry, and cellular antioxidant enzyme activities were determined using commercial assay kits. To investigate specific antioxidant pathways, qPCR and Western blot analyses were performed.

The biochemical assays demonstrated that BOE possesses significant antioxidant activity. Additionally, BOE significantly alleviated the adverse effects of UVB exposure (30 mJ/cm²), which were characterized by decreased cell viability, elevated LDH activity, increased intracellular ROS levels, reduced activities of superoxide dismutase (SOD), decreased the levels of reduced glutathione (GSH), and increased Malondialdehyde (MDA) content. And the BOE modulates the antioxidant defense pathway by upregulating the mRNA and protein expression levels of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2(NRF2), heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), and NAD(P)H: quinone oxidoreductase 1 (NQO1).

Our findings indicate that the photoprotective efficacy of BOE makes it a promising candidate for incorporation as a natural component in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations.